Hot news from the Holy Mountain

Hot scoop from Mount Athos – a friend of mine has just produced a double length feature for 60 minutes on CBS (you can download from their website www.cbsnews.com from Monday.)
He has had unprecedented access to the monasteries of Simonos Petros and Vatopedi, and garnered extraordinary footage of the church services, liturgies and interviews with monks. Most amazing is the story of how the monks, after the fall of Thessaloniki in 1941, in desperation wrote a letter to Hitler to save them from imminent invasion by Bulgarian Axis troops – The letter ended up by some miracle on Hitler’s desk, something touched him, and he put the Holy Mountain under his personal protection – but, and there is always a catch, sent in the Sondertruppen whose mission was to “safeguard” the monastery treasures.

I am getting a sneak preview of the script tomorrow, and can’t wait to tune in to the programme. The BBC have been trying for years to get a film crew in. We say to the Beeb “must try harder.”

Ampersand on location: Jessica steps back in time in Hyderabad, India

Like all of us at Ampersand Travel, Jessica loves India. Despite having been on 11 research trips to India in the last four years, she even goes there on her personal holidays! She is currently glowing from a family holiday during which she enjoyed sharing her passion for the country as well as discovering a few new haunts. Her new favourite place? Hyderabad. Here, she tells us a little bit about her trip and why this city is set to become India’s newest and most exciting luxury cultural destination.

I visited Hyderabad in January and was blown away by this extraordinary city, jam-packed with history and interweaving cultures. My trip filled me with such excitement that I went back again, this time with my parents, and have recently returned even more eager to spread the word about this undiscovered luxury destination.

Not only has it got a new world-class international airport (recently voted top 5 in the world) with direct flights from London, there is also a phenomenal new hotel: the Taj Falaknuma Palace. I was totally capivated by it – not just by the opulence and grandeur of the hotel, but by the service, which is exceptional. You can go to a lot of hotels around India that are wonderful in terms of their architecture and design, but they’re not followed up with the excellent service and food. However, this place is all-round sensational. It is a true destination hotel: the spa is fantastic, the food is divine (nb. the watermelon basil martinis are to die for) and the swimming pool is sensational. It is also very peaceful – you can hear the birds and breathe in the greenery all around you. Set in an amazing location on top of a hill, you can almost step away from the city whilst still feeling a part of it. It’s a mainly Islamic city and you can hear the calls to prayer at different times of the day, so even when you’re in the palace you still have a sense of life going on around you.

The palace, built in the late 19th Century, has a fascinating history. European royalty and heads of states all stayed here and staff do special things to transport guest back to that era. They carry out quite a few of the formalities that the Nizam maintained when he stayed here, like being greeted by a horse and carriage on arrival. Our flight landed and we were driven up the hill by car where our carriage awaited us at the clock tower. We were greeted by a turbaned man in all his finery saying, “Welcome madam, please allow me to take your bags,” whilst helping me aboard. We were then escorted clockwise up the entrance steps of the palace as they scattered us with rose petals. So right from you entering the grounds you get transported into a completely new world. These things are done sometimes and they’re awful and you just think, “No! Not more rose petals!”, but here it makes you feel really wonderful and special.

Princess Ezra – the current Nizam’s first wife – supervised the restoration of the palace and she spent much of the last 10 years making every element as true to form as possible. It is like walking into a National Trust house filled with the Nizam’s original furniture, enormous chandeliers, a formal dining room with the longest dining table you’ve ever seen, and a rather wonderful ‘ladies gossip room’. The last Nizam to reside here (in his time, the richest man in the world) had a room where he used to throw all of his diamonds, coins and jewels into – a pit, basically, that he used to chuck his valuables into, including a huge semi-precious stone which he used as a paperweight. The palace has an in-house historian who really brings the whole experience to life (not that you need that doing for you). And it felt personal: less like a hotel and more like staying in somebody’s home – like a homestay in Kerala, just a quite a lot grander!

As for Hyderabad itself, what I love about it is, unlike many of India’s more popular tourist destinations, here visitors can experience a real, living and breathing Indian city. You don’t get disturbed at all walking around the city – there are no touts and not many other tourists. It’s about seeing unstaged events like people weaving saris or making bangles and knowing that they’re doing it because it’s their trade, their livelihood, not because the tourists want to see it. We have excellent guides in Hyderabad who really allow you to get under the skin of the city, whilst also making sure that you relate to what you’re seeing. Within the city limits you can explore ancient bazaars, the monumental Qutab Shahi Tombs, the impenetrable Golcanda Fort and follow in the footsteps of Lieutenant James Kirkpatrick, whose story is told by William Dalrymple in the White Mughuls. We also visited a weaver who sources textiles from the surrounding villages in Andhra Pradesh. She’s a woman in her late 70s who has been sourcing new materials from around the region all her life. You can buy the most beautiful scarves here for about £1 – and these are the type of products that you would find at Habitat, whom she used to supply to. But the loveliest thing is that it’s not commercial at all; she is just incredibly passionate.

The whole experience totally took my breath away. Where else can one retrace the steps of Nizams, European royalty, enchanting Begums, distinguished heads of state and walk the walk of kings staying in one of India’s most beautiful palaces perched 2000 feet above the city?

For more on my Hyderabad trip or to book your own, please feel free to send me an email at jessica@ampersandtravel.com or phone me on 020 7289 6100.

Space Celebration

On the 12th April we will be celebrating the 50^th anniversary of Yuri Gagarin and the first human orbit in space. Despite the cold war and the competiveness of the space race, Yuri Gagarin was welcomed the world over. Today we take images from space for granted, so how can we imagine what it must have felt like to be the very first man to orbit planet Earth?  When I orbited the Earth in a spaceship, I saw for the first time how beautiful our planet is. Mankind, let us preserve and increase this beauty, and not destroy it!”

Before man was in space there were Sputniks and dogs…

Sputnik

In Russian, Sputnik means companion. The first satellites were named Sputniks, as they were seen as a companion to Earth’s journey through space.

Belka & Strelka

Although not the first dogs in space, and not the last, Belka and Strelka were the very first dogs to orbit and survive. You can see them at the Memorial Museum of Space Exploration, or cosmonaut museum in Moscow.

We think you may enjoy a special anniversary film being released on you tube tomorrow marking Gagarin’s historic flight, First Orbit have teamed up with the astronauts onboard the International Space Station to film a new view of what Yuri would have seen as he travelled around the planet.

Weaving these new views together with voice recordings from Yuri’s flight and an original score by composer Philip Sheppard, they have created a spellbinding film to share with people around the World on the 50^th anniversary. http://www.firstorbit.org/

For those that have an hour, the Adam Curtis film (made for a Punchdrunk instillation) is not about the space race, but encapsulates the period even better than Mad Men:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/adamcurtis/it_felt_like_a_kiss/

For more on Russia email us on enquiries@exeterinternational.co.uk or call 020 89562756.

Evi’s Greek Easter Lamb recipe

Evi’s Greek Easter lamb recipe:

Vegetarians, small children and Temperance League, look away….

Ask your local shepherd to supply you with a whole young lamb and put it on a spit.
Choose a flowery meadow with an olive tree nearby and preferably a little pebble beach within greasy finger wiping distance.
At around 6.00 am, send your husband to build a fire with plenty of wood and start burning it down to get lots of charcoal.
Fuel up a group of pyromaniac young men with plenty of ouzo and wine to spend the next 5 hours turning the spit. Once the lamb has browned, raise the level of the spit so the lamb doesn’t burn.
Baste frequently with a thick bunch of fresh oregano dipped in an emulsion of olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper.

Accompaniments should be;
Taramosalata , tzatziki and any other dips you like.
Spinach pies made with flaky fillo pastry, feta, spinach and dill
Cheese pies
A large green salad with a dressing made of dill, spring onion, oil and lemon juice.
Plenty of red dyed hard-boiled easter eggs for the egg cracking competition.
At least 6 small and over excited children.
Lots more wine, ouzo and tsipouro.

Follow with Baklava and Halva “simigdalenio” made from semolina (see our 2010 blog called “sweet teeth”)
Finish up with two tons of Alka-Seltzer and a siesta under the olive tree…..

Ampersand on Location: Mark gets a refreshing lungful of Bhutan

The best ways to get to Bhutan are via Phuket, Bangkok or Delhi – these are currently the easiest flight connections available from the UK.  I’d recommend spending a few days in one of these destinations before or after Bhutan. On a recent research trip for Ampersand Travel I spent a few days in Phuket first. Many clients request to have three or four days by the beach at the end of their holiday, but I really enjoyed the reverse. It meant I could flop and relax initially, which is sometimes exactly what you really need when you’ve escaped the office! Plus it was great to have Bhutan as a fresh and exciting memory at the forefront of my mind when I came back to England.

If you’ve never been to Bhutan, it is a land of beautiful valleys and passes, warm locals and plenty of soft adventure activities – softened further by a scattering of luxury lodges full of authentic character. People may think trekking and cycling are a bit strenuous – which they can be if you want them to be – but you can take it completely at your own pace. Our guide knew that my girlfriend and I are both very active so whenever we were doing a long drive we would stop for an hour’s walk through the valley and then continue on driving, which was perfect for us. When I put together an itinerary for Bhutan I tailor my clients’ day-to-day activities to suit their interests, but what’s nice is you can always chat to your guide in the evening and decide what you feel like doing the following day.

There are certain spots, like the Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro, where there’s no way round the hefty hike (unless you get a donkey up, which is an option!), but you can still climb to the top in an hour and a half and it is one of those experiences I would say is 100% worth it. You’re not just trekking for the sake of getting fit or for the panoramic views; you’re doing it to visit one of the coolest and most iconic monasteries in the entire world.

The great thing about Bhutan is the combination of the complete escapism, the fresh air – like being in the Alps maybe 80 years ago – and the resorts. All the Aman lodges here are relatively small, ranging from eight to 24 rooms, and they are set in secluded, pristine spots, yet still walking or cycling distance from the nearest town. The bedrooms all have roughly the same layout and feel to them, following the Aman’s concept of “the journey”, so you feel like you know what to expect when you get to your next resort. And all the rooms are just perfect: they’ve got a stand alone bath tub and a wood-fire stove that you can either light yourself or ask to be lit for you, and staff turn down the rooms frequently and leave little gifts.

The lodges are all gorgeous but it’s the staff that make everything amazing. You never feel like they’re smiling to get a tip; they genuinely become your friends. And this applies to the whole country – whether you’re in the capital city or wandering through a remote village, the local people are equally warm and engaging. Anyone who’s been to Bhutan will tell you it is the people that made their trip. They all dress in the colourful national costume (ghos for the men and kiras for the women) as standard workwear, which adds to the feeling that you are experiencing a living, breathing culture – one which is authentic and not “put on” for the tourists.

If you’d like to learn more about my Bhutan experience or plan your own, please feel free to give me a call or drop me an email at mark@ampersandtravel.com – as you might have gathered, it is one of my favourite subjects!

Ampersand Travel; 020 7289 6100; www.ampersandtravel.com

Three Things Uniquely Russian

Mari Vanna

With a New York outpost and a sister restaurant in St Petersburg the Moscow Mari Vanna is one of the very best places in town to enjoy a genuinely home cooked Russian meal. Soups that come served in tureens, home salted salmon with light blini, pelmini (like ravioli) washed down with plenty of vodka and morst (freshly squeezed cranberry juice).  Apart from the food, the main reason to go is the quirky atmosphere. The concept of the restaurant is that you are ‘at home’ – so you ring the bell to be allowed in – by a man disconcertingly dressed in a track suit that would make Sue Sylvester proud- who will take your coats before a lovely waitress takes you to your table.

Then you may see Vienia (the cat) and Shurik (the Chihuahua) who are allowed the run of the restaurant…. One night in Moscow here is a must. But make sure you request not to be seated by the door.

Dostoyevsky metro station

I can’t think of anywhere else in the world where there would be graphic depictions of suicide in a tube station…

The murals depict scenes from some of Dostoevsky’s best-known novels. On one wall, a Crime and Punishment character, Rodion Raskolnikov, wields an axe over the elderly pawnbroker Alyona Ivanovna, who he chops to death in the novel. Nearby, a character from Demons holds a gun to his temple.

And can’t think of anywhere else in the world with stations as amazingly clean….

Queues

Us Brits have been well and truly trumped! Russia is a nation that really knows how to queue. The pictures below show the queue to get into the Isaac Levitan exhibition at the New Tretyakov. Levitan was Russia’s best landscape painter. Do you think that we would stand in a queue all day for Turner? Maybe it should have been a question on the census.

I was ushered straight in by my wonderful Exeter guide Alex. I really did feel rather guilty. This is perhaps the most visually graphic reason depicting how we add real value to our clients. Until museums in Russia discover timed entry, booking with Exeter is the way to go.

For more Russian insights www.exeterinternational.co.uk 020 89562756.

Lime Wood Hotel, New Forest

A very interesting and long overdue visit to Lime Wood hotel in the New Forest yesterday. Having heard much about this exciting new hotel, I was glad to finally see it. The setting of the house perched overlooking the forest is immediately impressive and as you swing into the drive way, you know something pretty special awaits. The orginal house has been added onto and is surrounded by the new spa centre and various lodges, which are very attractive and although everything looks very new at the moment, as the stone ages, the buildings will settle into the landscape. The interior is a mix of traditional and contemporary with very well thought out bedrooms and commodious bathrooms. Having had a few glitches on the F&B side, all I can say is that our lunch was delicious and the service excellent, so obviously these issues have been resolved. Traffic around Lyndhurst must be a nightmare in the summer but another access route is available avoiding the town. This is the perfect bolt hole from London for a spoiling country weekend. Lots to do and see in the area or just chill out at Lime Wood and enjoy the hotel and it’s facilities. The whole place is pretty chic and glamorous, with an obvious attention to detail.

Introducing the Bespoke Travel Club

Flying to the slopes this winter!

With lots of early snow in the Alps, the forecast looks good for the 2010/11 season ahead – so there is no better time to start planning that winter break! Skiing is perfect by private jet as you can fly to the smaller airports up in the mountains closer to your resort: Sion for Verbier and Zermatt, Chambery or Annecy for the 3 Vallees, Samedan for St Moritz for example. And of course there is no chance of your skis not arriving with you!

There are numerous jets to suit your party’s needs – from a cosy cabin for a romantic snowy getaway, to larger planes to accommodate groups of family and friends. So whether you’re a serious skier or an amateur who prefers the après to the piste, with your own choice of departure airports and times, you can ensure to be on the slopes in time for lunch.

Safaris – don’t have to be that way!

These days safaris can be so disappointing: they used to be the preserve of the well-informed traveller but nowadays you see safaris advertised in all sorts of brochures. The idea of sitting on my bum, in a zebra-striped van with half-a-dozen others appals me.

But it doesn’t have to be this way!

Some years ago I camped on an oxbow of the river Garamba. We had made the trek after reading Mark Carwardine’s book “Last Chance To See”. I wanted to see one of the world’s last 28 Northern White Rhino. Getting to Garamba is a bit of a mission: it sits on the Sudan border, just inside Zaire (as it was in those days) and when we signed in, the foolscap ledger went back to the 1940’s. They hadn’t filled one visitor’s book in more than half a century! Believe me, it really is quite a mission to get there.

Safari in Garamba was an amazing experience for a variety of reasons, but the pinnacle was probably being woken by hippo breath. Camping on an oxbow is always dumb, particularly in remote country, but on this particular night we all went to bed in the usual way and by the time the hippos came out to eat, we were all fast asleep in two-man tents. I was awoken in the wee small hours by a hippo exhaling on my sleeping forehead. He took off. I went back to sleep with a grin on my face. Fortunate outcome. Read more »